It’s been almost a year to the day since our last trip to our secret southern destination. Amazingly almost the same circumstances repeated themselves as last year when we were coming back from Surf Expo and the waves and the weather were lining up just right for our yet un-named surf spot.
First Swell - Jan 19-20th
- Started tracking the swell at surf expo. waves/weather were looking good.
- Crew was solid. A group of local SC guys. Teddy, Dennis, Anthony Brandon and Eric as our photographer.
- First swell was to hit Sunday night and Monday morning. We were all set for an overnight trip to our beloved secret spot.
- Arrived at 11am on Sunday to perfect double overhead surf with slight off shore conditions. We were stoked.
- After about a 5-hour session we headed to a sheltered cove for the night.
- BBQ pork sandwiches were for dinner but we spotted a local a local lobster fisherman and were able to barter 6 beers for 8 lobster. We ate like kings. I think we got the better end of the deal.
- To our surprise the swell was massive with buoy readings of 8ft @ 15sec in the outer water.
- We surfed our selves out on epic glassy waves, good time were had by all.
Second Swell Sat Jan 25th.
- As soon as I got home I looked at some swell models and another Monster swell was on the horizon. Hawaii was maxed out with only jaws being ride able. After a quick phone call to our Team Rider Jeff Clark who confirmed my suspicions on the swell size and letting me know they were going to be running the Mavericks invitational, I knew this could be a Big one.
- Swell and weather were looking insane! After our warm up the weekend before, I sent a chain text to the same crew letting them know to get ready for a 4; 30am departure on SAT. And the response from the boys "Hell yes"
- On the way out the buoys were reading even bigger! Swell 9-11ft @17 sec. It was on….
- Arrived at the break around 9.30am to perfect oily conditions with slight off shore winds, Waves were pumping in at the triple over head plus range.
- We all got smoking incredible rides, surfed for about 5 hrs. and were completely spent by 3pm. Nothing but beers and stories of the day on the boat ride home. We raced the sun back to Dana Point trying to get in before it set. We were elated that we had been so lucky to have all the elements line up and make for such an amazing surf session.
Stay tuned for our next adventure…